_Paspaley's pearls of wisdom

It was, as they say in Australia, a “real pearler” of an idea: When 14-year-old Greek refugee Nicholas Paspaley entered the burgeoning pearling industry in remote northern Australia, he was beginning a dynasty that would leave an indelible mark on the world of luxury jewellery.

Image: Nicholas Paspaley (pictured right, centre) 

That was 1932 and now eight decades later, Paspaley is one of Australia’s most prestigious luxury brands. Still owned and operated by the family, the company is now run by Nicholas’s children and grand-children, with boutiques across the continent.

It is here grand-daughter Christine Salter, creative director, is based. Working with master jewellers, Salter is responsible for the exquisite collections the brand is renowned for. She says it’s the ocean that truly inspires. “The Paspaley atelier is situated in Darwin’s marina. We chose it for its water views to keep the jewellers inspired,” she says. “Each year our design team travels to the Kimberley region to design collections inspired by the birthplace of Paspaley pearls.”

Pearls are enjoying a renaissance – The Times recently called it “the biggest volte-face in fashion” and leading the resurgence is Paspaley, with innovative designs like the Lavalier collection, inspired by divers’ nets, which allows one to wear a pearl whole, cradled in gold mesh. Meghan, Duchess of Sussex, wore a pair of Lavalier earrings on her and Prince Harry’s Australian tour in 2018. “Our Lavalier collection has been one of the most successful to date,” says Salter. “We were truly honoured to see Meghan wearing Lavalier earrings.”

Image: Meghan, Duchess Of Sussex wearing Lavalier earrings

Paspaley is also at the forefront of the increased demand for natural pearls, the family having withheld all its natural pearls from sale for 40 years. “This now enables us to make important pieces of jewellery, thanks to the foresight of the previous generation,” Salter adds. In May 2017 a triple strand of Paspaley natural pearls sold at Christie’s Hong Kong for US $2.1million.

Other signature pieces are crafted from their finest keshi pearls. Only a small quantity is discovered as a by-product of culturing and reserved for one-of-a-kind creations, such as the Wildflower Collier, a diamond necklace entwined with 77 keshi pearls, AUD $228,000.

Image: Wildflower Collier keshi pearl necklace

“My grandfather ignited an unwavering focus on quality and a desire to harvest pearls with a natural luminosity incomparable to any other,” says Salter. “Continuing this legacy is important to us.”

Innovation has always been key to the family; in the 1950s, natural pearls were pushed to virtual extinction, so dramatic change was required. Today, Paspaley is the world’s most important producer of cultured pearls. “Our continued success is a result of decades of dedication and innovation,” says Salter.

And that dedication is referenced in this year’s special collection, which will celebrate 100 years from Nicholas’ arrival in Australia. “The collection honours his momentous journey from Greece to Australia,” Salter concludes. “It’s a story of an adventurer.”